![]() So far haven't had any issues and we really believe it was one of our better additions. I'm curious too why it wouldn't roll up? Did it try, or just no movement?Ģ013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara Towed I put the top part on when I got it and it just didn't want to roll with it attached. Now you have me wondering if the motor is weak/worn. I have been researching and found several forums where people have found that many have reported that the WeatherPro sometimes has retraction issues. There could be many reasons such as low voltage, gas strut issue, spring slippage in the awning, etc. I think I will give it a try again and see if I can get it to retract. I will test the power coming to the awning motor and might also try the bypass cable. It acts like the motor is barely strong enough. It works the same whether using the engine running or shore power. WEATHERPRO POWER AWNING ARM MANUALĪnyone know if there is a manual override? Keep fearing the day it will not retract. So far the attached segment has been sufficient for most sites I've had this summer. I had the full screen staked out in a heavy rain and it seems to have moved the awning in it's track as the arms no longer retract into the mounting bars, unless I push sideways on the front arm while my wife activates the awning. It's a state of mind." Pole Sitter in Douglas Adams MOSTLY HARMLESSĪwning tension is too strong for me to slide it in the rail. My awning is a Carefree so maybe its a little different. My awning comes straight out just like Southwind98's and rolls up the 4 foot section just fine but it does struggle with the additional 6 foot section added so that piece only gets put on if the west sun is on the street side.The basic two problems you will run into will be that the awning will not retract and it will not deploy. One will be that there is a wire loose or frayed cutting the power to the motor.Īll you have to do if that is the source of the problem is replace the wire. The next common source for these two common problems would be the power button. It can malfunction due to corrosion, rust, wear and tear and again you will probably have to replace the control button.Ī third source would be the motor itself. It can wear down over the years and simply malfunction, overheat, have a short in the wiring, and other small issues. ![]() While you may be able to fix these problems yourself, it may be best to call in a qualified repairman as they have the tools to properly diagnose the problem. Other simple sources would be a fuse was blown or the breaker tripped for some reason. Awning manual rv crank handle carefree colorado rp telescoping.Make sure to check the obvious first to save you from any embarrassing moments when a repairman finds them.įinally, you may have a bad switch in the control panel. Burgundy Vinyl awnings awning window vinyl solera burgundy manual standard ext roller assembly fade camperid weather Dometic WeatherPro Power Awning - YouTube dometic weatherpro awning power rv weather pro awnings camper Lippert/Solera Awning Light 15' Black awning light lippert solera rvpartscountry Solera Awning - Replacing A Manual Awning Arm - YouTube awning arm solera manual Carefree Of Colorado R001546-RP Manual RV Awning Telescoping Crank awning manual rv crank handle carefree colorado rp telescoping Solera Power Awning Replacement Motor Lippert Components Accessories awning solera motor power parts lippert replacement components customer Solera Awning - Replacing A Manual Awning Spring Assembly - YouTube awning dometic diagram power wind wiring spring assembly solera RV Awnings Complete Awnings - RV AWNINGS ascent rv awning complete slide awnings carefree hardware deflector fabrics options polyweave acrylic vinyl Which RV Awning Travel Lock Do I Need? Īwning dometic power lock rv travel weatherproĪscent rv awning complete slide awnings carefree hardware deflector fabrics options polyweave acrylic vinyl. Burgundy Vinyl like Carefree Of Colorado R001546-RP Manual RV Awning Telescoping Crank, Lippert/Solera Awning Light 15' Black and also Lippert/Solera Awning Light 15' Black. Burgundy Vinyl we have 9 Pics about Solera Awnings® V000335183 - Standard™ 13'L x 1.5'Ext. ![]()
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![]() Whichever turns out to be easier from a wiring perspective. So instead of the normal "simplified" version of a 3g install, where you connect a short Yellow w/white wire directly to the output of the alternator, you need to run a longer version of it from the BAT #1 post on the isolator, back to the alternator's I wire.Įither that, or directly to the battery or starter relay. And the diode keeps any power signal from coming back from the batteries cables, to the ALT stud on the isolator, to signal the alternator on just how much current to produce. The isolator is basically just a big diode in a heat-sink to keep it cool. In this case, the #1 (main) battery stud on the isolator would seem to be the easy way. ![]() With a standard 3g and an isolator you will need to connect the Yellow w/white "A" wire like Ford did originally, which is directly to the Main battery's power. Should this "I" terminal be exciting the alternator? If so, why isn't it?Īm I going to damage battery one with it hooked up the way it is currently?Īgree with Steve, but you can make yours start charging again, at least for now with a quick extension of the Yellow wire.īut first, is yours an isolator rated for at least 130 amps? If not you might as well get it out of there now and go with Plan-B first. This makes me think with the current set up, I am over charging battery 1 with the jumper wire. ![]() ![]() With jumper removed it charges 13.5, when I touch it, charging increases to 14 volts. Once I touch the wire just for a second it starts charging. If I disconnect my jumper wire before starting is doesn’t charge. It has 12.5 volts with the jumper wire unhooked. I checked the green/red wire with the engine off with key on. Before dual batteries the charge wire was hooked to the battery so it was always excited. I jumped the battery 1 post with the alternator post on the isolator and it works great. With it hooked up like this, it still needs to be excited. The "I" terminal (green/red wire) is hooked to an ignition source. The S wire is hooked to the black and white wire with the little grey clip (stator). I currently have the A terminal (Yellow wire) jumped to the B+ terminal (charge wire). But I am worried about over charging battery 1 if battery 2 is low. I currently have jumped battery one to the alternator terminal on the isolator and it works great. This system is not exciting my alternator. One for alternator and one for each of the batteries. Now I have a battery isolator with 3 terminals. Before I had dual batteries I had the 4 ga charge cable hooked to my starter solenoid and it had a direct path to battery power. A red top optima for the start battery and all accessories and a yellow top for winch only. Contact us and we will provide details of where to send a defective product.I just installed dual batteries. 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